Hidden Delicacies of the Sea – and more

For over ten years, he has had a unique tradition. In collaboration with the Norwegian Navy, he organizes an annual seafood day in the coastal area outside Bergen. Together they also invite Bergen’s top chefs to work with even the strangest ingredients.

At one point, Duinker asks if anyone wants to taste grilled starfish, looking around at some sceptical faces.

This includes those not usually considered as food.

The marine researcher promises that starfish taste like deep-fried shrimp. But not everyone is convinced:

“Maybe we should have started with something a bit simpler,” he says.

Sea Urchin Omelette

Arne gives a qualified knock. These sea urchins were harvested a bit late in the season, so their taste is more bitter than fruity, compared to earlier in the spring, or later in the autumn.

“This was quite a fine lady. This is luxury food,” says Arne, as he cuts small pieces and hands them out to curious soldiers.

In Norway, we have about 16 species of sea urchins, and the one being prepared here is the red sea urchin (Echinus esculentus), which is perhaps the most well-known but still less used for food than its sweeter cousin, the green sea urchin (Strongylocentrotus droebachiensis).

These sea urchins are going to be made into an omelette. Or scrambled eggs, due to an overly hot grill. Chef Hanne Frosta, best known for the restaurant “Hanne på Høyden” in Bergen, guides us through the recipe for the sea urchin omelette, which ends up being one of the day’s more popular dishes.

“Sea urchins can be a bit sweet, while also being bitter. But the bitter taste disappears when we heat them up,” Hanne explains.
And she is not averse to using sea urchins in other things.

“Have you tried blended sea urchin in a gin and tonic? It’s just for fun, of course,” she says with a sly smile.

Tasting New Species

It’s not just sea urchins being served. The menu includes everything from grilled starfish to marinated seaweed, along with classics like grilled monkfish and scallops fried in browned butter. The day is just as much about giving young Navy soldiers a closer connection to the resources along the Norwegian coast.

One of the more curious soldiers is Tina Booth. Even though she grew up with seafood, she had never tasted scallops before.

“It was really delicious!”

Inspiring for the Chefs

Most of the ingredients are harvested by the Navy divers during their annual training. However, Arne himself harvests seaweed: Kelp, and other algae for today’s feast. The menu includes sugar kelp, winged kelp, sea spaghetti, dulse, and sea lettuce.

Seaweeds are highlighted as potential solutions to feed a growing global population. However, a 2022 report points out the need for more knowledge, as seaweed and kelp can contain more iodine than is healthy to consume.

But today, with local harvesting and small portions, the marine researcher is not concerned.

The red algae dulse is marinated in a mixture of lime and soy sauce before being served on scallops. The winged kelp is fried until it turns completely green and crunchy, with a delicious umami flavour.

One of the chefs present is Robin Baldi, the head chef at the restaurant Tempo Tempo in Bergen.

“It was fun to see more of the seaweed and kelp. This has been an inspiring day,” says the head chef.

Setting the Stage for the Day’s Highlight

One of Arne’s most important tasks is to get people to open their eyes to the resources found in the sea, especially those lower in the food chain and species that most people might wrinkle their noses at. He is particularly interested in how we can consume more seaweed, such as dulse and kelp.

“I understand that not everyone is as interested in this as I am, but if I can help increase curiosity a bit among the population, then I’ve done something right,” says the marine researcher.

While much of it is about taste, it’s equally about curiosity, texture, and the setting of the tasting. After several hours of grilling and sampling by the sea, it was time for the finale. Stir-fried jellyfish.

“I’ve dreamed about this for many years! I think several times a week that I need more jellyfish,” he says, laughing. “Apparently, it helps with memory…”

And so, the tasting begins. One by one, people take a small bite. A bit sceptical, a bit influenced by the environment, and a bit for the experience.

The taste is interesting. Most striking is the appearance, with glass-clear pieces when cut up.

“It actually tastes a bit like seawater, but the texture is more like gummy bears.”

 

Reference

World Health Organization (2022). "Report of the expert meeting on food safety for seaweed–Current status and future perspectives". Rome, 28–29 October 2021. Link: https://doi.org/10.4060/cc0846en